Well, I'm considering building a different set like Rogue's design. Anyone interested in these? They're hardly used (and have been used really only to store things on top of since I've been injured).
They are these only slightly modified: Jerk Blocks
I changed the top retention setup to ripped strips of plywood vs. quarter round molding (and have included it on one side so it won't be slipping off a side). I used standard wood screws for the internal supports and these fasteners at the corners of the boxes:
Structural Fasteners
40" L x 20" W x 40" H
Monday, December 9, 2013
Sunday, August 18, 2013
Shoes for Sale!!!
Okay, so have some shoes for sale. Hardly wore them. Got a little carried away with shoes so trying to get rid of some. Somehow I ordered the Reebok shoes too small for me - I read the originals ran big so I ordered 9.5 - my toes touch the end. Then I read that the 2.0's definitely ran big and they got their sizing straightened out. So custom ordered (!) the 2.0's in 9.5's and guess what? Too small too. Crap.
Buy! Buy!! Buy!!! :)
My loss is your gain.
New Balance Minimus (original model)
Don't think I have ever worn these outside. Size 10. Perfect condition.
Custom Reebok Nano 2.0
Worn outside a couple of times. Excellent condition. Size 9.5 - too small
Original Reebok Nano.
Worn outside a few times, shows a very faint amount bit of dirt (they are yellow). Size 9.5 too small.
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
Galvanized Axles
Okay here they are in their raw glory! Not as pretty as Rogues (or my taped beauties) but from a maintenance standpoint these are great. Sold one already and a couple of boxes are interested as well.
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
Baby Axle
Well had 4.5' leftover so built a baby axle - 36" between collars. Can't fit a ton of weight on it but with the competition plates could actually load it two 45's no problem.
Monday, June 17, 2013
Prototype axle bar complete!
Okay so finally got the collars and the bar is complete. I like the way it turned out - perfect for home gym use. I'm in the process of making some for a couple of local boxes but instead of tape found a reasonable source for galvanized pipe. Will be much better from a maintenance standpoint. The tape on the part of the bar where you load weights is pretty nice though to make up for the smaller diameter of the pipe (1.9"). The bumper plates fit more snugly (but not tight) and you can use standard sized collars to hold the plates on.
This one is 6' so in between the 5' and 7' I will make for the boxes. Too much waste at 6' (standard pipe length is 21'). I will make a 4.5' with the length I have leftover I'll have my daughter use it... :)
This one is 6' so in between the 5' and 7' I will make for the boxes. Too much waste at 6' (standard pipe length is 21'). I will make a 4.5' with the length I have leftover I'll have my daughter use it... :)
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
Gin Gym Tour
Well I've added all kinds of stuff to the Gin Gym thought I'd give a quick tour:
(click photo for panorama view)
Rogue S-2 (spotter arms, Matador), Pendlay Nexgen bearing barbell, Pendlay comp bumper plates, Hi-temp training plates, Rogue landmine, DIY dog sled, DIY axle, DIY bandbell, Sorinex FNGHD, assorted slam balls (20#-50#), kettlebells (9#-70#), (2) Abmats, iron plates, dumbbells, and bands. Lockers were from my wife's old work - she wanted them as a keepsake... They just accumulate junk inside of them but she wanted them what was I supposed to say? Fits the motif... :)
16' of monkey bars, climbing wall, bunch more barbells (how did I accumulate so many?), kayak
(click photo for panorama view)
C2 rower (model D, PM3), Precor treadmill, DIY pullup bars, Rogue rings, DIY rings, 11' climbing rope 1.5", medicine balls (12#, 14#, 20#), more bands, Clock Gone Bad, DIY jerk boxes, assorted jump ropes
(click photo for panorama view)
Schwinn Airdyne AD6, DIY plyoboxes (12", 16" 20" stackable), battling ropes (in the white bag on the blue plyobox)
Not pictured: DIY reverse hyper (can be seen farther down this blog), Lifecore rower (got it before I knew the C2 was the CF standard), Rogue dip belt
Not pictured: DIY reverse hyper (can be seen farther down this blog), Lifecore rower (got it before I knew the C2 was the CF standard), Rogue dip belt
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Axle taped
Well, the blue tape I wanted looked more purple to me so I went with the red. Still waiting on the collars. I do like the color added to the pipe - dresses it up some. Yes, it will get dirty but oh well. I'm pricing some galvanized as well. That will be tape free and better for chalking (although with the tape you don't need to chalk). Feels good!
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Start of Axle Bar
Here is a shot of the bar before the tape and collars. I've included a shot of the collars as well for reference. Right now I'm just using another set of lockjaw clamps as my stop.
Next DIY Project - the Axle Bar
As much as I love Rogue's stuff, shipping to California unfortunately makes the cost of some of their stuff higher than I'd like to pay (and I've bought plenty of stuff from them). And being a DIYer, I like to build things myself where it makes sense and doesn't exceed my capabilities (and I have the right equipment).
Here is my next project - super simple really and I'll be able to save myself a little bit of money. The differences are basically no powder coat (I'll use colored athletic tape to jazz things up a bit) and the collars/stops are steel collars that are secured with a set screw vs. a welded on stop. I prefer the look of the collar personally - it looks a lot more like the material used for the sleeves on a typical barbell.
Got inspired watching the Regionals with them using the axles and figured it would be nice to add to the ever increasing volume of equipment in my garage... ;) Will be good for grip stuff too!
Here is my next project - super simple really and I'll be able to save myself a little bit of money. The differences are basically no powder coat (I'll use colored athletic tape to jazz things up a bit) and the collars/stops are steel collars that are secured with a set screw vs. a welded on stop. I prefer the look of the collar personally - it looks a lot more like the material used for the sleeves on a typical barbell.
Got inspired watching the Regionals with them using the axles and figured it would be nice to add to the ever increasing volume of equipment in my garage... ;) Will be good for grip stuff too!
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Bandbell Bar complete
Okay, got it all together and this thing is crazy. Gets super wobbly just like the videos online. Good for me especially now with my sternum bothering me - light weight but still a good test of the stabilizer muscles. 70# on there right now can go heavier too - bar is hardly bent.
Monday, April 1, 2013
DIY Bandbell Bar
Okay, so I'm intrigued by this whole bandbell bar thingy. Of course, being the DIYer, I'm not going to spend $300 on one. Here is my design in fiberglass tubing. The pieces will be bonded together with 3M 5200 adhesive for a permanent setup. Should be pretty strong with 1.5" outer tube and 1.25" tube inside. Again, all glued together with a really good quality adhesive.
If you're wondering what the heck these are for, check out the video on Rogue's page:
http://www.roguefitness.com/bandbell-bars.php
Now if I could just somehow get all healed up maybe I can start using all this stuff!!!
Saturday, February 9, 2013
DIY Reverse Hyper Build for my Rogue S2 Squat Stand
Well, it has been awhile since I have posted here. Sadly, it is because I haven't been able to workout now for quite some time. Have finally gotten things diagnosed and I'm having some SI joint issues. Hope to now start the correct PT soon so I can get better and get back at it.
In the meantime, I've added something to the gym that will hopefully help me in my rehab and then eventually get back to where I used to be (well, I'd take close). Here is my DIY reverse hyper:
I was inspired by this site: http://www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com/homemade-reverse-hyperextension.html
Now, I don't have a cage, I have the fabulous Rogue Fitness S2 squat stand. So I had to tweak the design to make it work with the S2. I have the safety spotters which is what the contraption sits on. Also key to the design is the plate storage - load these bad boys up with a bunch of weight so the rack doesn't rock. I have 410# on mine. Note use this setup at your own risk. This hasn't been tested by Rogue. I don't plan on using massive weight for this, and I don't weigh that much so it should be fine. However if you're a big dude and want to put on a bunch of 45's, well, good luck and don't tell me I didn't warn you... :)
Here was my first design (with parts list):
So I bought all the supplies, and then it sat for several months until I finally got working on it. As I was putting things together, I realized the 2x10 material was going to make this thing heavier and look pretty rough (note: I had some 2x10 left over from my jerk boxes). So after thinking about it, I checked out my wood pile and saw that I still had some 3/4" plywood leftover from my jerk box project. So I modified it and used that instead. Much better choice. It is definitely lighter and I think looks nicer.
Here it is without the pad on top. I'll zoom in on the areas so you can see the detail.
The swing arm section consists of a couple of T-fittings. The upper section has short pipe nipples on it and it swings very smoothly. I cut two EMT couplings in half with a hack saw to secure both the swing arm and the platform in place. I had to buy new screws to fit since the screws provided with the couplings weren't long enough. Also of note are the angle cuts to eliminate the sharp corners that initially were present. I used a 2x4 to provide additional strength to the platform and to connect the side pieces of plywood.
This is key to the design - otherwise this thing would go flying. I attached 2x4's on each side, drilled holes to match up with the safety spotter holes and put the pins through to secure them in place. On top are conduit anchors. The caps probably aren't needed, but it does provide it a more finished look. You can save proabably $10 by not getting those.
Here is the lower T-fitting and pipe nipples. Note the step up fitting to go from I believe 1.25" pipe to 1.5" pipe. I used a Husky (Home Depot) velcro strap with carabiner attached to it - they're used for storage but worked perfectly here. I have a Rogue Fitness dip belt that does double duty as the strap for my feet. The 1.5" pipe nipples are about 1.875" in diameter, so just a tad short of the 2". My lock jaw clamps don't clamp tightly, but they don't slip off. If you want, you can put several layers of tape on the pipe nipples to build up the diameter so your clamps will stay in place.
A shot of the bracing underneath the top platform and pipes running through the side plywood. Pretty simple design really. Note the clamps on the outside of the platform so it stays centered.
This is the velcro strap from Home Depot I used.
Here is a closer shot of the angle cuts, padding, etc.
The pipe is 1" galvanized for the supports. Those are approximately 54" long. Two are required. You'll need also the following pipe:
(2) 1.5" Tees
(2) 1.5" nipples, 3" long
(2) 1.5" nipples, 8" long
(1) 1.5" pipe, 24" long
(2) EMT couplings hacked in half (or you can just buy four)
(4) Conduit anchors to secure the 2x4's at the safety spotters to the main pipe (not sure on the size, just grab the package and test it on the pipe while you're in Home Depot)
Note that you can totally downsize the swing arm if you want. This might be important if you want to save money or use 1" standard plates for your weights. Just use a reducer at the top T-fitting and then get the appropriate sized pipe/nipples/T-fitting. Don't skimp however on the main cross bars.
Hope this helps. Leave comments if you have questions.
In the meantime, I've added something to the gym that will hopefully help me in my rehab and then eventually get back to where I used to be (well, I'd take close). Here is my DIY reverse hyper:
DIY Reverse Hyper in action! Rock solid!
I was inspired by this site: http://www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com/homemade-reverse-hyperextension.html
Now, I don't have a cage, I have the fabulous Rogue Fitness S2 squat stand. So I had to tweak the design to make it work with the S2. I have the safety spotters which is what the contraption sits on. Also key to the design is the plate storage - load these bad boys up with a bunch of weight so the rack doesn't rock. I have 410# on mine. Note use this setup at your own risk. This hasn't been tested by Rogue. I don't plan on using massive weight for this, and I don't weigh that much so it should be fine. However if you're a big dude and want to put on a bunch of 45's, well, good luck and don't tell me I didn't warn you... :)
Here was my first design (with parts list):
So I bought all the supplies, and then it sat for several months until I finally got working on it. As I was putting things together, I realized the 2x10 material was going to make this thing heavier and look pretty rough (note: I had some 2x10 left over from my jerk boxes). So after thinking about it, I checked out my wood pile and saw that I still had some 3/4" plywood leftover from my jerk box project. So I modified it and used that instead. Much better choice. It is definitely lighter and I think looks nicer.
Here it is without the pad on top. I'll zoom in on the areas so you can see the detail.
The swing arm section consists of a couple of T-fittings. The upper section has short pipe nipples on it and it swings very smoothly. I cut two EMT couplings in half with a hack saw to secure both the swing arm and the platform in place. I had to buy new screws to fit since the screws provided with the couplings weren't long enough. Also of note are the angle cuts to eliminate the sharp corners that initially were present. I used a 2x4 to provide additional strength to the platform and to connect the side pieces of plywood.
This is key to the design - otherwise this thing would go flying. I attached 2x4's on each side, drilled holes to match up with the safety spotter holes and put the pins through to secure them in place. On top are conduit anchors. The caps probably aren't needed, but it does provide it a more finished look. You can save proabably $10 by not getting those.
Here is the lower T-fitting and pipe nipples. Note the step up fitting to go from I believe 1.25" pipe to 1.5" pipe. I used a Husky (Home Depot) velcro strap with carabiner attached to it - they're used for storage but worked perfectly here. I have a Rogue Fitness dip belt that does double duty as the strap for my feet. The 1.5" pipe nipples are about 1.875" in diameter, so just a tad short of the 2". My lock jaw clamps don't clamp tightly, but they don't slip off. If you want, you can put several layers of tape on the pipe nipples to build up the diameter so your clamps will stay in place.
A shot of the bracing underneath the top platform and pipes running through the side plywood. Pretty simple design really. Note the clamps on the outside of the platform so it stays centered.
This is the velcro strap from Home Depot I used.
Here is a closer shot of the angle cuts, padding, etc.
So for the top I went down to Joanne's Fabrics and picked up some vinyl material off the sale bin for $8. Pretty thick with a slight texture. Use whatever you want though. But try to get something fairly heavy duty.
Here is the foam I bought: http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/foam-and-pillows/foam/specialty-foam/rebond-foam/1-x-24-x-72-rebond-foam-.htm - I double stacked it so it is 2" thick. Used spray glue to hold the two pieces together and then used spray glue between the vinyl and the foam. Not sure how much that will help, but seemed like the right thing to do. There is a thin layer of wood (1/4") on the bottom of the foam - it is needed to staple the vinyl to. More spray glue there as well. Folding the edges takes some time and material cut away - take your time at this and you will get it to look pretty decent. Then I secured the pad down with a few 1.25" screws from underneath the plywood. Keep the screws to the outside to avoid getting poked by them (I don't even think it is possible with all that padding but might as well play it safe).
Anyhow, all in I'm probably about $130 give or take. Here is what you need to make one:
3/4" plywood - the top platform is 20"x32". Adjust to your desired size. Some might need it wider. The side walls are about 5"-6" tall. I have two braces of plywood - one at the front end and one in the middle. The last brace at the back end where much of the stress is is a 2x4 cut to size. I glued and nailed everything together.The pipe is 1" galvanized for the supports. Those are approximately 54" long. Two are required. You'll need also the following pipe:
(2) 1.5" Tees
(2) 1.5" nipples, 3" long
(2) 1.5" nipples, 8" long
(1) 1.5" pipe, 24" long
(2) EMT couplings hacked in half (or you can just buy four)
(4) Conduit anchors to secure the 2x4's at the safety spotters to the main pipe (not sure on the size, just grab the package and test it on the pipe while you're in Home Depot)
Note that you can totally downsize the swing arm if you want. This might be important if you want to save money or use 1" standard plates for your weights. Just use a reducer at the top T-fitting and then get the appropriate sized pipe/nipples/T-fitting. Don't skimp however on the main cross bars.
Hope this helps. Leave comments if you have questions.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)